Monsoon is not only important for agriculture but it is also the time to begin road trips. Especially for people like me who reside in coastal areas. Where hot-humid weather, which has just ended, was in its full enthusiasm to drain out the last drop of strength and energy from mind and body. Where the soul was as thirsty as all those tiny, dwarf herbs and shrubs that were growing by the side of highways. You were peeping every now and then from your window, to trace every flying piece of cloud near the horizon. You were scrolling every ad featuring the cool breeze of those snow peaked mountains. But the end of the financial year had thinned your pocket. The news of growing crowds and strain on Himalayan ecosystem has restrained you from clicking on any discount coupons or redim those long collected points in the wallets of online travel companies. And as it starts to rain and plants start to shine with freshly bloomed green leaves, the souls of people like me crave for road trips.
This time too, as the monsoon was slowly crawling into Odisha and the end of June was nearing, my road trip ideas started to pick me every now and then. As with every falling drop of rain the beauty, shine and luster of jungle and the roads passing through them increase to many fold. And many thin, shrinked mountain streams gain their youthfulness again. Hence road trips on these forest roads to any forest area has always been my preference during monsoon. This time too I googled many places. A few times I would sit for hours to search our next destination, and would lately realize that I had just finished reading the geographical map of India again! Starting from Similipal Tiger Reserve to Dhuandhar Waterfall, Hampi to Ooty, Dudh sagar to Naida Caves, Todgarh to Hirpora, Jim Corbet to Kalimpong…….believe me the travel through the map and internet were also exciting (as I could imagine my timid self trying all those dare-devil acts and paths). But the recent place we visited was never in my mind or in my remote imaginations.
As usual I was having morning tea and scrolling the google map after finishing night duty. Suddenly my fingertips and eyes stopped at a waterfall, which we visited last December. Suddenly I remembered a sign board mentioning the Satkosia, which we crossed before taking the road to that waterfall. I tried to look into the old videos from phone storage to figure out the distance between that sign board and Satkosia. And to my astonishment it’s just 34 kms. Then I googled about the route and the options available for night halt. When I called on the number provided by the tour planner to inquire about room availability, they suggested that we should opt for that portion of Satakosia wildlife Sanctuary, which is present in the Nayagarh district, just on the opposite bank of Mahanadi, which we were originally planning to visit. I received the booking confirmation via whatsapp soon after paying the due amount online.
The weather, sun, clouds, rain, wind every factor was just in the perfect shape and condition on the scheduled day. The night before it rained quite well. In the morning it was lightly sunny and the atmosphere was not humid. We started our journey by 7:30 in the morning. As we crossed Gania the landscape changed suddenly. Number of people, vehicles, and concrete houses were gradually replaced with green trees, the buzzing of birds and the view of Mahanadi on our right side. Though the sight of the sign board Satakosia Tiger Reserve at Chhamundia Forest check gate was exciting. But the 14km road from Gania to Chhamundia could efficiently scrub all my worries, stress and palpitations of the last few months. By the time I registered my vehicle number at the forest check gate and entered the reserve area my eyes, mind and soul were feeling peaceful with an abundance of green. Even the water of river Mahandai, which had always amazed me with shades of Blue, here it has absorbed the color Green from the dense, huge, massive yet attractive trees.
Satkosia is the meeting point of the Deccan Peninsula and the Eastern Ghats, two bio-geographic regions of India; contributing immense biodiversity. Satakosia is a beautiful ecosystem of Odisha. It’s not only a tiger reserve but it also has a magnificent 22km long gorge (called Ganda in Odia) over river Mahanadi, a breeding center for freshwater crocodiles, gharial and mugher at Tikarapada and a part of Mahanadi Elephant Reserve. Satakosia Tiger reserve comprises two wildlife sanctuaries, Satakosia Gorge and Baisipali. It is spread over an area of 1136.70 sq km over Angul, Dhenkanal, Nayagarh, Cuttack and Boudh with a core area of 523.61 sq km. Satakosia Gorge was notified as sanctuary in the year 1976, Basipali in 1981 where as Satakosia tiger reserve was notified in December 2007.There are almost 104 villages within Satakosia Gorge Sanctuary. The Satakosia gorge is located within the Tiger Reserve which is a United Nations Protected area. It is also a Ramsar site designated in 2021. In general 126 trees, 98 shrubs, 125 nurbs, 561 climbers species are found in the reserve. Around 38 species of mammals, 161 species of birds (if we add migratory birds then the count is 283 species), 27 species of reptiles and 183 species of fishes are found. The reserve has a low population of tiger, leopard, elephant, spotted deer, sambar, chowsingha, barking deer, bison, wild dog, sloth bear, jackal, giant squirrel and porcupine. If we talk about avifauna, this site is designated as an IBA due to the presence of two globally threatened species of Gyps vultures, Indian Skimmer Rynchops and Bristled Grass and also as the breeding site of Indian Skimmer. Out of 59 species listed in Biome-11 (Indo-Malayan Tropical Dry Zone) globally threatened, 32 are found here in Satakosia gorge sanctuary. Also 4 of Biome-10 (Indian Peninsula Tropical Moist Forest) are found here. The area supportsmoist deciduous forest, dry deciduous forest and moist peninsular Sal forest. Sal, Teak, Arjun, Indian Rosewood, Bamboo are the most prominent trees found in this sanctuary. Shrubs like Indian gooseberry, Indian barberry, Butterfly pea, Wild Jasmine, Indian Coral Tree are also abundant. While boating in the Satakosia gorge the tree which drew my attention the most was Freshwater mangrove. The network of roots they form will make you miss your grandmother with those knitting crochet and the network of designs she used to make. We could also spot two crocodiles and a few birds like Indian Cormorant, Kingfisher, White- breasted waterhen, Golden oriole. Also the sight of the Giant squirrel was too exciting. Even though the rain had already started to pour, the deep green water of Mahanadi at the gorge had not lost its calmness and steadiness. The water in the gorge was devoid of any turmoil which could appease a mind. The tranquil one finds in the depth of this steady water is potent enough to soothe a soul.
Another most attractive thing for me in Satakosia was the presence of huge, massive, large, gigantic trees of enormous size. In spite of their large size they appeared beautiful, charming, appealing and cool. I found the Streblus asper/ Sand-paper tree of Sahada Sundari story here. It’s tall, slender and the trunk is smooth, as if it had applied a layer of sandalwood powder. I could feel the inner calmness and strength of those age old trees while cuddling them. It was just like a session of meditation. I could feel the vastness of nature and how tiny humans are in front of it.
When we returned to our cottage in the resort in the late afternoon, another magical moment was waiting for us. Before climbing the steps to our cottage on a small hill, we took the trail upto Mahanadi and started to walk on its beach. The clouds had made a way for the setting sun and it was shining. The slow, timid, cool wind was dancing over the Mahanadi water and along with it the soft golden rays of sun. Groups of clouds embracing the mountain peaks, greeting them and seeking their good wishes before entering their region for next few months. The rain-soaked cool sand on the beach was spreading its calmness into my body gradually. The sound Mahanadi made each time it touched the sand was sounding like a lullaby. I sat down, put my hands in the flowing river. My mind was feeling empty, but soul was full, content. I was not feeling excited at all, but the joy and happiness was of peace and tranquility. Satakosia is just like meditation itself. The stillness, depth, steadiness leaves a mind undisturbed and peaceful. If it could have been measured, then I think Dopamine was at the lowest possible level inside me at that moment. I was not worried about any loss or competition. The plot of any new or pending story was also not bothering me. My soul, mind had found perfect shelter for themselves, in Satakosia, the Dopamine fasting heaven!
