My father passed away on January 1, 2013, due to complications following a cardiac operation in Hyderabad. Four days before the operation, I traveled from Delhi to Hyderabad, where my two younger brothers lived with their families and our mother. After this sad chapter, we all returned to our village in Odisha for the final rituals. According to Hindu beliefs, we preserved some of his remaining bones for future rituals.
The final ritual involves immersing the bone relics in the Ganga. In our locality, the process typically starts from Allahabad, then continues to Gaya, Kolkata, Jajpur, and finally Puri Jagannath. However, it was not possible to perform this ritual for the past eleven years.
Finally, we all decided to go to Kolkata’s Baboo Ghat to complete the final ritual. My father’s younger brother, who had died much before my father, was also waiting for his last ritual. My uncle’s only son planned to come with us to Kolkata.
After reaching Howrah Station, we took a ferry to Baboo Ghat for just six rupees per head. Baboo Ghat is just opposite the railway station. The weather was hot and humid. When we reached the ghat, I found that all the Brahmin pandits were from Odisha. A seventy-five-year-old pandit performed all the puja at a very reasonable price.
My younger brother and his wife conducted the rituals. I took photographs and googled to learn more about the ghat and its locality.
Baboo Ghat, also known as Baje Kadamtala Ghat and officially Baboo Raj Chandra Ghat, is one of Kolkata’s historic ghats along the Hooghly River. Located on Strand Road at B. B. D. Bagh, it was constructed during the British Raj. Baboo Ghat is also a critical transit point for passengers crossing the river to Howrah Station and other destinations in Howrah. Ferries operated by the Inland Waterways Corporation frequently depart from the jetty at Baboo Ghat to various locations, including Howrah, Chandpal Ghat, Telkal Ghat, and Bally.
The ghat features a tall colonial structure, a Doric-Greek style pavilion with massive pillars serving as the landing berth. Originally named Baboo Raj Chandra Ghat, it was built in 1830 by Rani Rashmoni, the zamindar of Janbazar, in memory of her husband Babu Raj Chandra Das. The term “Babu” in Bengali denotes a gentleman or sahib. A marble tablet under the pavilion’s pediment credits Lord William Bentinck for encouraging such public amenities. Baboo Ghat is the second oldest ghat in Kolkata.
Today, the pavilion and its surroundings are encroached upon by vendors and priests. The colonial structure and the stairs leading to the river show signs of decay. A section of the ghat initially designated for women’s bathing has now become a garbage dump. Despite this, Baboo Ghat remains bustling from morning until late evening. People use it for bathing, puja, religious ceremonies, massage, and leisure. It is particularly crowded during Chhat Puja and other festivals like Durga Puja and Saraswati Puja for the immersion of idols.
Additionally, Baboo Ghat houses a major bus terminus, one of Kolkata’s primary ones alongside those at Esplanade and Howrah Station. This terminus serves interstate buses to Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha, and other cities in West Bengal. Local buses heading to various parts of Kolkata and its suburbs also operate from here, often carrying goods and merchandise. The proximity to the business hub of BBD Bagh makes Baboo Ghat a hive of activity around the clock.
The nearby Eden Gardens railway station, part of the Kolkata Circular Railway, further enhances Baboo Ghat’s connectivity. Landmarks such as Eden Gardens, Netaji Indoor Stadium, West Bengal State Assembly, Calcutta Swimming Club, Calcutta High Court, Writer’s Building, and Prinsep Ghat are in close vicinity. Millennium Park, a riverside amusement park and picnic spot, is a short walk away.
After performing all the rituals, I stood near the Ganga at Baboo Ghat, reflecting on some past memories. Suddenly, it struck me as a coincidence that my grandfather’s two sons returned to Kolkata after all these years. It has been roughly eighty years since my grandfather died in Calcutta when my father and his other siblings were very small. Eighty years ago, my grandfather’s last rituals may have taken place in this very spot. Could I consider this a reunion?
