On a misty winter morning, we headed towards the historic Ramnagar Fort, located on the eastern banks of the Ganga, directly opposite the famed ghats of Varanasi. This magnificent fort, crafted from Chunar sandstone in the Mughal architectural style, was constructed in 1750 by Maharaja Balwant Singh, the Kashi king. Today, it stands not only as a monument to a bygone era but also as a residence for the descendants of the royal family.
Exploring old palaces and forts brings me joy, perhaps because they offer a distinct view from the chaos of everyday life. I hold the belief that rulers seldom have the genuine interests of their people at heart. Power has a tendency to corrupt, leading those in positions of authority to exploit the common folk. When I wander through these historical sites, I am reminded that they were constructed through the hard work and sacrifices of ordinary people, whose labor shaped magnificent structures that often symbolize oppression and inequality.
Our trip began with a shared auto ride from the Lanka gate of Banaras Hindu University, a mere 2 kilometers away. The recently constructed Ramnagar Bridge facilitated our journey, leading us right to the bustling market at the fort’s entrance. Here, vendors selling various tourist items lined the path, adding to the lively atmosphere but posing a challenge for those trying to capture a clear picture of the majestic main gate.
Entrance to Ramnagar Fort is free, and upon entering through its massive gates, we were greeted by a scene now typical at many tourist spots: numerous visitors taking group photos and selfies. Only a portion of the fort is open to the public; the rest remains a private residence for Kashi Naresh and his family.
Within the fort lies Saraswati Bhawan Museum, originally the Durbar Hall or Public Audience Hall. The museum houses an eclectic collection, from American vintage cars and jewel-adorned sedan chairs to intricate ivory carvings and medieval garments. Highlights include royal palanquins crafted with gold and silver brocade, elephant saddles made of silver, and an impressive array of swords and antique firearms from various parts of the world. However, the museum’s maintenance and curation leave much to be desired. Admission to the museum is priced at Rs 20 for Indian citizens and Rs 150 for foreign visitors. The fort is open daily from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm.
The fort is also renowned for its vibrant festivals. The month-long Ram Lila festival transforms the palace into a colorful spectacle, where episodes from the Ramayana are enacted. This festival is a crucial part of the Dussehra celebrations, typically occurring in October, and features a colorful pageant that vividly brings the epic tale to life.
After exploring the main areas, we ventured to the back of the fort, where we discovered two temples—one dedicated to Lord Vishnu and another honoring Ved Vyasa—alongside a popular temple facing south, dedicated to Lord Hanuman. The fog obscured our view across the river, yet the scene remained picturesque, with small fishing boats dotting the waters.
Though I longed to see the fort from the river to appreciate its full splendor, the fog and our schedule made it impossible on this visit. Nevertheless, the experience was a profound reminder of the past, a period marked by both grandeur and the silent toils of the ordinary people who built these structures, their efforts an enduring testament to their lives and labor
