Exploring the 64 Yogini Temple in Hirapur, Odisha

My younger brother, who lives outside Odisha, had long planned to visit the 64 Yogini Temple. With Chitalagi Amavasya being an auspicious day in the Hindu calendar, we decided it was the perfect time to go. The temple is only about eight kilometers from my residence, so we set out in the early afternoon. My wife and one of my close friends also joined us. My younger brother drove the car while I sat beside him.

As we journeyed, we crossed the Kuakhai River, swollen with muddy floodwaters, and a vast canal. The road was good, flanked on both sides by cultivated land where the green paddy fields looked pleasant and cool. Villagers were busy with their household chores, adding a touch of rustic charm to the landscape.

I’ve been visiting the 64 Yogini Temple for the past thirty years, sometimes driven by my own interest, other times guiding friends and relatives from outside. Despite the increasing crowds and new concrete structures over the years, my love for the place remains strong. My fascination with tantra, which may be the reason I feel so drawn to this site, keeps pulling me back time and again. I also like the huge pond adjurn to temple .I once wrote a short story inspired by a folk tale set against the backdrop of the Kalinga War, highlighting the significant role this place played. In odisha we have two 64 yogini temple. One is at Hirapur near Bhubaneswar and other is at Ranipur jharial in Balangir District.

Nestled in the beautiful village of Hirapur, not far from Bhubaneswar, the 64 Yogini Temple stands as a unique testament to Odisha’s rich spiritual heritage. This temple, dating back to the 9th century, is dedicated to the worship of Yoginis, powerful female deities in Hindu mythology.

Unlike the typical temple architecture of Odisha, the 64 Yogini Temple is circular, with a modest diameter of 25 feet. The open-roof design allows natural elements to play a part in the worship, symbolizing the connection between the divine and nature. Within its circular walls, you will find 64 niches, each housing a beautifully carved statue of a Yogini, showcasing intricate artistry and devotion.

The temple’s tranquil ambiance, especially after a rain shower, enhances its mystical allure. Surrounded by lush greenery, it offers a perfect setting for those seeking a blend of history, spirituality, and natural beauty. The 64 Yogini Temple is not just a place of worship but a journey into the ancient Tantric traditions that once flourished in this region.

Constructed around 864 CE by Queen Hiradevi of the Bhouma dynasty, the temple embodies a unique confluence of mythology, architectural brilliance, and historical resilience. Local legends attribute the temple’s origin to a divine conflict where the Goddess Durga, in her fierce form, manifested as 64 demi-goddesses to vanquish a powerful demon. These 64 goddesses, known as Yoginis, requested Durga to commemorate their heroism with a temple.

Architecturally, the Chausath Yogini Temple is a marvel. The circular structure, with a diameter of 25 feet, is hypaethral, allowing the open sky to light the inner sanctum naturally. Built from sandstone blocks, the circular wall features niches, each housing a statue of a Yogini. Of the original 64 idols, 56 remain, crafted from black stone and exuding timeless beauty and power.

At the temple’s center stands the primary idol, Goddess Kali, depicted triumphantly standing on a human head, symbolizing the triumph of the heart over the mind. This central figure is encircled by the Yoginis, creating a mandala-like pattern representing cosmic order. Some historians believe that the Chandi Mandapa within the complex might have originally housed an idol of Maha Bhairava, further enhancing the temple’s spiritual importance.

Throughout its history, the Chausath Yogini Temple has faced numerous challenges, including some attack by outsiders. Despite the damage inflicted, the temple has survived, symbolizing resilience and the enduring power of faith.

The temple’s artistic detail is extraordinary. The Yogini images, carved from dark chlorite rock and standing around 40 cm tall, are depicted in various poses on plinths or their animal vehicles (vahanas). These figures are adorned with delicate features, slender waists, broad hips, and high, round breasts, each showcasing a unique hairstyle and body ornaments. Their nudity, apart from bejeweled girdles and light skirts, underscores their divine and liberated nature, free from earthly constraints.

Today, the Archaeological Survey of India maintains the temple complex, ensuring its preservation for future generations. These efforts highlight the importance of safeguarding our cultural and spiritual heritage.

About Dr. Ramakanta Samantaray

Ramakanta Samantaray is a contemporary Indian Artist and well known Odia fiction writer. He also regularly writing features and critical texts on art and culture. Presently he is living and working in Bhubaneswar. He has published more than fifteen books.

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