Venturing beyond the bustling lanes of Shantiniketan, my quest for terracotta marvels led me to Surul, formerly known as Surulia. The decision to bypass Bishnupur’s terracotta temples, constrained by time, turned into a serendipitous discovery of the historic Sarkar Bari, a rajbari built in the 1750s.
Setting out in a toto, the language barrier with my driver dissolved into a unique blend of communication, navigating through the winter sun, dry dust, and the hum of vehicles. En route, the old-fashioned roadside shops hinted at a timeless charm, suggesting that time might have paused in some bygone era.
Finally reaching Surul, the white-washed palace of the Sarkar Bari stood as a well-maintained testament to history. Inside, a lone elderly man sat, lending an air of nostalgia. A Durga Puja pandal graced one side, echoing the rajbari’s tradition of celebrations spanning over 290 years.
The nearby distinctive temples, adorned with intricate terracotta carvings, beckoned me. Entering the premises, an intriguing detail caught my eye – the main gate for the temple and a nearby mason is same, possibly a connection to the Jamidar family’s heritage.
The priest unlocked the gates of temple, requesting Dakshina. Aware that offering this token was key to enjoying a peaceful visit, I handed him fifty rupees and proceeded to capture photos and videos within the premises.
To explore further, I approached the Panch Ratna Lakshmi Janardhan Temple, an ancient masterpiece with three arches. The central arch vividly depicted the war scene between Lord Ram and Ravan, while the remaining two captured Ram’s coronation and Ravan’s strategizing with his generals. Adjacent twin temples dedicated to Lord Shiva showcased captivating terracotta panels.
My peaceful observation was interrupted by a bustling group of tourists, and soon the small temple premises echoed with chatter. As more vehicles arrived, signaling the influx of visitors, I realized it was time to bid farewell to Surul, leaving behind a timeless journey through history and tradition.
